 Essence & Alchemy |
| Review Date: July 22, 2001 |
| Reviewer: nancy, Menlo Park, CA United States |
| This just might be the best overall book on fragrance ever, ever written. It is of essential interest to the reader interested in perfume at most any level, from the connoisseur to the designer to the fabricator to the consumer. Mandy Aftel persists in creating perfumes from "all natural" ingredients, after "the trade" now relies on synthetics and scent enhancers and linear construction, even in the most expensive concoctions. And, here we're talking about QUALITY perfumes with history behind them, not new age, "go with the glow" infusions that are often a little reminiscent of the compost heap after the rain. For the general reader, Aftel references the history of fragrance preparation, from ancient times, through alchemists perfumery, to the great age of the perfection of the art in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. All the traditional ingredients are itemized, from essential incenses and oils used as the "base" to the citrus and floral essences used for the "heart" or middle notes, to the delicate and short-termed finishing high or "head" notes. The properties of each are well explored. More interested readers will be delighted to learn more about the character of what is going into their favorite perfumes and what combines and what doesn't. The reader considering dabbling in perfumery, will find this to be an excellent guide on how to start and continue to build fragrances from easily obtainable essences acquired by mail order. |
enchanting!!
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| Review Date: August 29, 2003 |
| Reviewer: Jason D. Florin, |
| This book relates the historical facts about perfumes in an enjoyable, easy to read manner. The author does not limit herself to the descriptions of the typical essential oils listed in most books such as lavender, rose and jasmine, but also includes more exotic aromatics such as blood orange, champa, amberette, and cabreuva. She does not include the more medicinal smelling oils like thyme and tea tree in her recomendations as many other books do. However, this is a book on perfumary and the esthetic properties of the essential oils are the focus. For those interested in the technical and medicinal merits of the essential oils, this is not the book for you. The author does not promote the use of animal products; they are mentioned as these oils are a part of the history of perfumery, and still have a role , albiet diminished, in the modern perfume industry. Her discriptions of the various oils are detailed and her anecdotal references are interesting. She describes how to blend oils, offers suggestions on blending companions, and provides enough data to create your own blends. The oils are catagorized by note, and also according to family ie. resin, citrus, floral etc.She also includes recipies, indicates which oils are costly and/or difficult to find, and some sources. Overall, this is a well written, entertaining, and information packed book, which focuses on perfumery not chemistry.A sheer joy to read, and inspiring for the creative nature of blending essential oils. |
This should be a prerequiste book...
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| Review Date: December 10, 2004 |
| Reviewer: Kasee L. Kozel, MN |
| This is the book to have when you want the best perspective about natural perfumery. Most perfume books focus solely on the synthetic or aesthetic aspect of scent. "Essence and Alchemy" goes into depth about all aspects of perfume: scientifically, historically, sensually and spiritually. Maybe this will add one more element to home perfume-making. It's what makes the book unique. That, and it's a great read. I renewed it twice from the library when I first came across it! |
When Mr. Gilbert Talks....
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| Review Date: July 16, 2003 |
| Reviewer: , Portland, Or United States |
| I am familiar with the few available sources of reliable information on perfumery, as well as the various treatises on sundry applications of natural botanical oils and extracts. Books offering expert insight into the individual ingredients used in natural Perfumery, such as Steffan Arctander's History of Natural Flavors and fragrance Materials, are quite scarce and far beyond the budget of most. Recent publications on the fundamentals of perfumery, such as Salvatore Paul Gimelli's Aroma Science, are highly technical and unsuited to those lacking a broad foundation in chemistry. I would recommend that Ms. Mandy Aftel's Essence and Alchemy: A Book of Perfume be considered mandatory reading for anyone fascinated with natural oils and extracts, and the sensual world of Perfume. This is an ideal guide to the student and neophyte perfumer alike. Ms. Aftel has offered us a wonderful introduction to natural perfumery. Those seeking an historical study of perfumery will find in Essence and Alchemy exhaustive research distilled into a fascinating and elegant retelling. But more than providing us with a mere history of perfumery, Ms. Aftel has shared a wealth of knowledge gathered from her own experiences working as a professional perfumer. Essence and Alchemy offers a unique insight into a master perfumer's art. Ms. Aftel provides a most enchanting invitation to the world of natural perfume, and if ever a book may revitalize the all but lost art of natural perfumery, it is Ms. Aftel's Essence and Alchemy. A reviewer has expressed strong disapproval over the inclusion of Animal derived materials, such as Civet, in Ms. Aftel's book.. Civet is certainly among the ingredients used in traditional natural perfumery. Civet can prove extremely difficult to work with, and a great deal of skill is required to successfully formulate with this ingredient. Competence in the application of Civet may serve as an indicator of the skill of a natural perfumer. Of course, use of Civet, or any animal derived ingredient is not necessary to make natural perfume. Vegetarians, Vegans, and many others who find animal derived materials unpleasant may work without them. In my opinion, this reviewer has greatly overstated the role of animal derived materials as suggested in Essence and Alchemy. Nowhere in Essence and Alchemy does the Author "wax nostalgic on the world of perfumery when animals were hunted to extinction or worse for their essences". This remark is absurd, and hurtful. The author expresses no cruel delight in reminiscing over the decimation of species sacrificed in order to collect fragrant musk.. Civet Cats are not slaughtered to collect Civet Paste, which is a grease-like substance secreted from glands located below the animal's tail. Proper care of the cats will vary from keeper to keeper, but it is not necessary to do the animal harm while collecting Civet Paste. Any keeper who cares for the animals or values them as a source of livelihood will protect the cat's health as vigilantly as any dairy farmer would that of a milk cow. Civets are not considered endangered, and the Cat has no forerunners that have become extinct due to demands of the fragrance industry. Further, it should be made clear that the reviewer is thoroughly in error that Civet Paste "....is illegal to import to the US, and illegal to sell". I have been professionally importing fragrance and flavor ingredients into the United States from around the world for six years, and I recommend all concerned parties peruse the Harmonized Tariff Schedule of the United States (2003) - supplement 1, Chapter Five, under the heading 0510.00.20.00, Ambergris, Castoreum, Civet and Musk. My personal recommendation to the reviewer is that they offer an apology and courteous retraction of the statement suggesting that Ms. Aftel has encouraged any illegal activity, such as the import or distribution of good labeled contraband in the United States. But I digress...If you are interested in the art of natural perfumery, Ms. Aftel's Essence and Alchemy: A Book of Perfume is the best resource the available to you. Take advantage of a beautifully written book on a most fascinating topic! |
Solid Research & Writing
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| Review Date: December 9, 2003 |
| Reviewer: David P Oller, Albuquerque, NM United States |
| What I really appreciated about this book was the quality of research that went into the project. I would love to spend a day in Mandy's library looking through her resources. Next comes "Artistic Integrity" where Mandy boldy presents subjects regardless of their popularity, and without fear of dealing with petty, small-minded, and prejudiced people who will scorn her efforts based on these prejudices. The book is primarily about "Natural Perfumery" as it was, and as it is today, and she does so beautifully! I personally consider it a must, not only for those interested in perfumery, but in all the aromatic arts. |
Informative!
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| Review Date: November 25, 2001 |
| Reviewer: Nadine, Michigan, USA |
| There are a number of books on perfume out there (be they ever so hard to get a hold of), and very few give any information other than what has been said before again and again. But this book actually delves a little deeper and touches on this subject with new and subtle observations not seen before. Very well done! |
A wealth of useful information
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| Review Date: July 3, 2006 |
| Reviewer: A. Phillips, Lancaster Ohio |
| This is my first perfume "text book" and I find it extremely helpful in learning to understand the processes of making natural perfumes. The tables, suggestions for getting acquainted with different scents, the details about perfume making are wonderful. In addition, I was able to get a very fast reply to my email when I had a specific question. This book also includes interesting historical data. I highly recommend it, specially for the beginning perfumer. |
Absolutely gorgeous
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| Review Date: February 24, 2003 |
| Reviewer: , South Dakota |
| As a novice to perfumery, I found this to be an incredibly helpful introduction. It is written more stylishly than a good deal of novels, heavy on illustrations, and brimming full of information. Giving this book five stars just doesn't do it justice. |
sensuous
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| Review Date: June 25, 2003 |
| Reviewer: glouise, Upstate New York United States |
| With an increased intrest in essential oils and scents I have of late, been reading books on these subjects. I should actually say, flipping through books on the subject. Most are not very interesting and read like dry textbooks. Mandy Aftel's work is the first book that has been so inviting and full of information that I have actually read it from start to finish. Aftel pulls the reader into the sensual world of scent. Her beautifully writen treatise is a joy to read (better than many novels I have picked up lately). In her book, Mandy Aftel opens up the door to a forgotten world and with basic information and flair, draws the reader in. Unlike many books on the same subject, this book is not just a listing of this goes well with this, this is good for this, it is a reference guide to increased awareness and a stepping stone to begin the exploration of the olfactory sense and perfumery. With a well chosen word or metaphor Aftel explains fragrance and the art of perfumary in a way that the reader thinks of their future experiments not just as a scientific experiment but as a philosophy or spirituality of the senses. A truly inspiring book that was a joy to read. |
Must Read for perfume lovers
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| Review Date: March 24, 2005 |
| Reviewer: M. Teixeira, California |
| Mandy Aftel makes this an interesting read. This book was wonderful, I couldnt put in down till I was finished. She runs through the history, magic, and memories that perfumes conjure up. If you enjoy aromatherapy, and would love to know why our noses "remember" you should read this book. I will be recommending it to my friends! |
Excellent introductory book on the sesual world of fragances
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| Review Date: February 21, 2007 |
| Reviewer: Ryan Yeung, West Covina, CA United States |
| This handy little book packs quiet a punch. It contains history, scientific theories, artistic interpretations, production methods, and detailed glossary of the essential oils and where to get them. A must have for people who wants to experiment with creating their own secented materials. |
Essence and Alchemy
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| Review Date: May 6, 2007 |
| Reviewer: White 'n Nerdy, Texas |
| A must have for the perfumers library. Fun and interesting to read, I think I have read through it twice already. |
Unexpectedly Lyrical
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| Review Date: August 18, 2007 |
| Reviewer: P. Ryan, Upstate New York |
| I bought this book for information on how to make natural perfume, and was not disappointed, but what makes it so compelling is the elegance of the writing. Very evocative, really steeps you in the world of fragrance. |
Fascinating! Delightful!
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| Review Date: February 7, 2008 |
| Reviewer: M. Mistretta, Seattle, WA USA |
| Essence & Alchemy was a really wonderful adventure in reading. From the history of perfume to the process, old and new, involved in extracting essences, to the follow-along steps to creating your own perfume, I found this book to be entertaining and informative from the first page to the last. The comparison between perfumery and alchemy was insightful. The illustrations were charming and fun. I learned a lot and was engaged the whole way through! Highly recommended to any fan of unusual nonfiction subjects. |
A revelation about scent
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| Review Date: February 5, 2008 |
| Reviewer: Patricia B. Ryan, New York |
| This book is a very authoritative treatment of the subject, but that's not what makes it great. Aftel's passion for her subject, conveyed in lyrical, sensuous writing, is incredibly contagious. |
Great Book!
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| Review Date: April 6, 2008 |
| Reviewer: Ross L. Urrere, |
Easy to read and really full of useful information done in a wonderful and passionate style.
It gave me a solid grounding in the how and why of aroma. Plus it is great fun to read! |
Very interesting book
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| Review Date: May 7, 2007 |
| Reviewer: Sonsa Rae, Phoenix, AZ |
| I have to admit that I haven't read a lot of books on the subject of the history of fragrance but this book came highly recommened and, so far, I am finding it really interesting. I think that anyone who wants to know more about the subject could definitely benefit from reading it. For me, it's more of a reference book than something I would just sit down and read so I haven't finished it yet but I hope to when I have more time. |
An overview of perfume, but somewhat unfocused
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| Review Date: October 25, 2009 |
| Reviewer: Raine Daye, OH, USA |
This book was an entertaining read, but it was hardly a good historical account of perfumery. It did have a brief overview at the beginning of the book, but it quickly goes into a collection of quotes and historical quirks about perfume. I think that the "alchemy" part of the book where the author repeatedly ties perfume making to the thought processes of alchemists gets old fast. While alchemical processes did play a part in perfume's beginning the parallels she draws seem to be more of her own making.
I think this book also didn't quite live up to my expectations of a book to help a beginner start making their own perfume. It did list items a beginner needs and go into a discussion of the different notes and the ratios they need to be in, and it also described the characteristics of a sampling of fragrances as well. However, a majority of these passages seemed to drift into (and worse yet start out as) lengthy paragraphs on the "spiritual" aspects of perfume, while others simply dwell on the intangible and almost go as far to qualify as "purple prose".
The author also has a preference of natural scents over synthetics which I don't have a problem with especially since she explained why, but she does mention that synthetics can cheaply extend natural scents for perfumers on a budget but at no time during the book does she discuss the use of synthetics for scents that cannot be naturally derived such as with the "ozone" smells.
This book did have a few recipes for scents (only about four I think), and it did have a list of beginning supplies as well some website retailers of these items, but no where did it go into a lot of detail as to why someone would want to do this on their own (given the large starting cost) outside of creating personalized scents. I think I would have liked the book better if there was more information or at least if the information contained was more easily accessible. As is, the useful parts of the book are often hidden between the author's comparison of perfumery to alchemy and while I may find the imagery of combining the sun and moon interesting it isn't incredibly relevant to what people who want to start making perfume need to know. |
Great for those who love fragrances or thinking of creating your own.
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| Review Date: September 23, 2008 |
| Reviewer: Mario T. Gomez, East Bay Area, CA |
This book has motivated me to create my own fragrance rather than buying one from the department store. It gives a history of perfume throughout history. Since Mandy Aftel has a fragrance shop here in California, I plan on visiting it.
I look forward to beginning my journey into the world of Essence and Alchemy (creating fragrances). |
An interesting primer
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| Review Date: November 10, 2006 |
| Reviewer: Steven Finz, The Sea Ranch, CA USA |
| I read this because I wanted some general background in the art/science of perfumery. And that's what it gave me. It purports to take the reader through the actual process of creating a perfume, but I did not follow those directions, so I can't say whether it effectively serves as a textbook. But it was a very interesting treatise on the history and process of perfume creation, replete with quotes from many classic sources on perfumery and references to the power of fragrance in works that were not about making perfume. |
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