Le Jardin Retrouvé:

was founded in 1975 by Yuri GUTSATZ (1914-2005), Perfume - Composer, who spent the greater part of his career working in one of the most prestigious French companies producing aromatic products.

Le Jardin Retrouvé with its limited production, is an attempt to return to the artisanal sources from which perfumery originated, with all that it implies in terms of patience and love of a thing well done.

I had never heard of this brand when his son, Denis Gutsatz, sent a number of samples which were passed along for me to try, then report back on as a guest blogger.  He is working to keep his father’s legacy alive.

Yuri Gutsatz was born in Russia and relocated to France after the revolution. There, largely self-taught, he worked in the laboratories of Maison Mury.

After WWII he studied more formally in Grasse, the center of French parfumery. While there he met Jean Carles who later invited him to Roure and introduced him to Louis Amic, the owner.  Gutsatz along with a small group of other perfumers...

produced almost all the perfumes for the grand houses of Jacques Fath, Nina Ricci, Carven, Balmain, Balenciaga and Piguet. For Gutsatz those were the golden years of perfumery, and its most bright star his co-worker, Germaine Celier, whom he graciously thought of as "...the most talented of us all."

(Divina, Fragrance Bouquet)

Gutzatz, a talented writer, expressed openly what other perfumers thought but might have been afraid to say aloud.   After all, you have to create perfumes no matter how perfunctory, in order to be a parfumer!

He sounded the alarm early on, and we are seeing and living the results of dumbing down the conceptual idea of perfumes – not helped at all by the changes required by removing certain notes from fragrances necessitating formula changes.

"More and more, the (perfumery) business is concentrated in the hands of huge corporations whose vocations more resemble oil drilling than fields of roses".

(Extract of Yuri Gutsatz' speech: Parfumeur, ton nom est Personne (Perfumer, Your Name is Nobody).)

Or:

"Perfumery is part of the social and economic environment it lives in. Class and refinement are no longer the predominant trends of our time and will certainly not be in the future."

(Extract of the speech at the Création & Marketing Conference.)

What do you suppose he would think about the majority of department store brands today, with seemingly every celebrity bringing out a fragrance, which will hardly make a mark before disappearing from consciousness?

When he started his own company, he created the concept of niche and artisan fragrances before they became popular in our time frame.

I look forward to trying his scents and sharing them with you.

Have you tried any of his fragrances? If not: Ask Them for Free Samples - Tout autour du Monde - All around the world.

Best,
Karin

This post is by Karin of Savvy Thinker, guest blogger. Karin loves perfumes, especially vintage or artisan. She has a wide range of interests including but not limited to books, cosmetics, business, and jewelry, including beading.

Originally posted 2009-10-17 13:06:42. Republished by Blog Post Promoter

• Layering Le Jardin Retrouvé: Honeysuckle with Tuberose Once in a while one can come up with a lovely new way of wearing two fragrances, both of which might be favorites, or conversely, one might be more favored than the other. Such is the serendipitous layering of Le Jardin Retrouvé's Le Chèvrefeuille - Honeysuckle with Le Jardin Retrouvé's......
• Chèvrefeuille (Honeysuckle) by Le Jardin Retrouvé Review Continuing to sample Le Jardin Retrouvé’s scents passed them to me from cpf via LJR. The flower scents: Citron Poivré (Spicy Lemon), Eau de Tubéreuse (Tuberose), Jasmin (Jasmine), Verveine (Verbena), The Lys (Lily), and Chèvrefeuille (Honeysuckle). I will do the roses in a separate category. The scent of honeysuckle in......
• Eau de Vetyver (Vetyver) and Vetyver Vanilla by Yuri Gutsatz Review Yuri Gutsatz has released in his lifetime a number of unique fragrances, some of which feature vetyver as one of its primary notes. He has made a name for himself with Le Jardin Retrouvé, and two of the fragrances that he created under this fragrance house were Eau de Vetyver......
• Citron Poivre (Spicy Lemon) by Yuri Gutsatz Review Continuing to sample Le Jardin Retrouvé’s scents passed them to me from cpf via LJR. The flower scents: Citron Poivré (Spicy Lemon), Eau de Tubéreuse (Tuberose), Jasmin (Jasmine), Verveine (Verbena), The Lys (Lily), and Chèvrefeuille (Honeysuckle). I will do the roses in a separate category. First Citron Poivré (Spicy Lemon):......
• Verveine (Verbena) by Le Jardin Retrouvé Review Continuing to sample Le Jardin Retrouvé’s scents passed on to me from cpf via LJR.  The flower scents: Citron Poivré (Spicy Lemon), Eau de Tubéreuse (Tuberose), Jasmin (Jasmine), Verveine (Verbena), The Lys (Lily), and Chèvrefeuille (Honeysuckle).  I will do the roses in a separate category. Verveine (Verbena) A billow of......

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Eau de Tubéreuse (Tuberose):

A lovely oriental flower with a heady and betwitching perfume.

Indian Tuberose Absolute is used in Eau de Tubéreuse (Tuberose.)

What is tuberose and where does it come from?

Tuberose (Polianthes Tuberosa) is a perennial plant whose extracts are used as a heart note (middle note) in perfumes.  It is one of the white florals used in many white floral fragrances.

The tuberose is a night-blooming plant thought to be native to both Mexico and India.  It features prominently in Indian culture and mythology where tuberose flowers are used as decoration and in garlands in weddings and other traditional rituals.

Monks introduced the flower into southern France around the middle of the 17th century.  It was planted in Beaugencier.

I associate tuberose with Hawaii, as the fragrance of the Islands where it is on the air.  It is used traditionally to create Leis.

In Victorian times, it was considered a funeral flower. It also meant voluptuousness and dangerous pleasures.

What does tuberose smell like?

It smells a bit like gardenia, warm, strong, penetrating.   At the same time it is complex, exotic and sweet.

The tuberose note is a scent you either like or hate in fragrances.  There’s not a lot of middle ground.  It is voluptuous and heady.

And did I mention, strong!

What does it remind me of?

Eau de Tubéreuse (Tuberose) reminds me of Guerlain's Mahora or Guerlain’s Mayotte.  Mayotte is creamier than Mahora.  All three are rich and long-lasting tuberose fragrances.

Who can wear this?

This is a woman’s fragrance, unless you can carry off a rich floral.

My thoughts:

I have to be in the mood for tuberose.  I generally cannot wear white florals well, but I do wear tuberose with a very light hand!

What is this fragrance it like?

It is a perfect tuberose, if you like tuberose.  It begins bright and sassy.  There is a hint of spiciness to it in the middle sections of the drydown.  Ultimately it settles into a softer form of tuberose.

Is it modern or traditional?

It is a classic traditional.  But it is not old; it is new.

Could you layer this?

No, I think it would overwhelm other fragrances.  Maybe you could cut the tuberose by layering something completely different over the top of it, say patchouli or coffee.  Then again, it might be awful!

OTOH, I hear it is wonderful layered with LJR's Honeysuckle. I will have to try it!
Edit: You can see my review of the layering here.

What I like about it:

It is a true tuberose soliflore.

My take:

That’s a hard one!  It’s a 4 out of 4 for tuberose.  It stays true and rich.  It is very long lasting.

If, however, you do not like tuberose, you’d have to rate it differently.  The whole point, though, of creating a tuberose fragrance is to make it for folks who do like tuberose.

What do you think?

Have you tried any of his fragrances? (If not: Ask Le Jardin Retrouvé for Free Samples - All around the world.) Do you like tuberose fragrances? If you have, do you have a favorite? Learn more about Le Jardin Retrouve house and Yuri Gutsatz.

Best,
Karin

This post is by Karin of Savvy Thinker, guest blogger. Karin loves perfumes, especially vintage or artisan. She has a wide range of interests including but not limited to books, cosmetics, business, and jewelry, including beading.

Photo Credits: http://www.lejardinretrouve.com/

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Originally posted 2009-10-24 17:27:24. Republished by Blog Post Promoter

• Eau de Cologne by Yuri Gutsatz Review Continuing to sample Le Jardin Retrouvé’s scents passed on to me from cpf via LJR.  The flower scents: Citron Poivré (Spicy Lemon), Eau de Tubéreuse (Tuberose), Jasmin (Jasmine), Verveine (Verbena), The Lys (Lily), and Chèvrefeuille (Honeysuckle). I reviewed the roses in a separate category. And the last: Eau de Cologne......
• Jasmin (Jasmine) Le Jardin Retrouvé Review Continuing to sample Le Jardin Retrouvé’s scents passed them to me from cpf via LJR.  The flower scents: Citron Poivré (Spicy Lemon), Eau de Tubéreuse (Tuberose), Jasmin (Jasmine), Verveine (Verbena), The Lys (Lily), and Chèvrefeuille (Honeysuckle).  I will do the roses in a separate category. Jasmin: Yuri Gutsatz imagined an......
• Eau de Sandalwood by Le Jardin Retrouvé Review Continuing to sample Le Jardin Retrouvé’s wood and leather scents.  Again, these were sent to cpf who passed them to me. No line would be complete without some representation of sandalwood. Eau de Sandalwood: Eau de Sandalwood was the first Eau de Parfum created when Le Jardin Retrouvé was established......
• Eau de Cuir de Russie (Russian Leather) Review I wanted to try Eau de Cuir de Russie (Russian Leather) first, because this is a fragrance that appears in other brands, and generally it is one that I like. Leather is rich and sumptuous.  The best leather is supple, emitting a fragrance, giving sensual pleasure, not only in......
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The Eau "pour Homme" (for men) is an intriguing men’s fragrance which

combines notes of flowers, spices and wood

diffused and long-lasting, where–

the essential notes are derived from the natural essences of Mediterranean and exotic plants

• Top Notes: Lavender and Rosemary
• Heart Notes: Ceylon Cinnamon
• Base: Singapore Patchouli

What is it like?

To me, it is traditional with a twist.  I suspect that twist is the cinnamon which moves it out of the ordinary usual men’s fragrances and into something more modern.

For a fragrance built in the past, it is surprisingly fitting for today.

Of course, I like cinnamon in fragrances!

Why cinnamon?

Cinnamon, to me, adds just the right note of spice to keep a fragrance interesting.

A lot of fragrances have some cinnamon notes – I show 108 just in my own personal list of notes that I keep.  And there are a lot more than that!

What is the cinnamon like?

This is a dry cinnamon, not sweet.  It’s not one you would tire of.

What does it compare to?

The obvious choice that comes to mind is Estee Lauder’s Cinnabar, the almost-cloying blast from the past that I wore very well when layered with Estee Lauder’s White Linen – I got scads of compliments on that serendipitous combo.  But because I wore it for so long, it feels old on me though it might feel new to you.  Try it and see.

The cinnamon in Pour Homme is much less sweet and has no aldehydes.  In that way, it gives a fresher rendition, no matter its age, and is wearable from the first moment.

Who can wear this?

The Eau "pour Homme" (for men) is envisioned as a men’s fragrance, and it would be quite lovely on a man.  I am enjoying wearing it myself at the moment, so it is not outside the realm of something a woman could wear.

I don’t consider this fragrance unisex, as those generally lean more masculine on me than those fragrances that I can wear that are marketed toward men.

Could you layer this?

Yes, you could definitely layer this with any fragrance you would like to add more spice to.

What I like about it:

I liked it from the minute I applied it.  It doesn’t have to wait for the dry down to be more wearable.

I love the cinnamon in combination with the patchouli.  If you follow my blog, you know I like sweet patchouli, not dry.  This falls somewhere in between.  It’s not sweet patchouli, but it isn’t that dry, pungent patchouli.  The cinnamon softens it and makes it feel sweeter.

I’m very happy the lavender is not predominate.  I can’t really detect it.  Generally lavender feels too masculine to me.  The two exceptions are Kilian’s Absinthe Verte and Andy Tauer’s Rêverie au Jardin.

My take:

I give this fragrance a 3 out of 4.  It’s quite nice.  As it dries down, it becomes more masculine feeling, but it is still enjoyable for me, at least on occasion.

What do you think?

Have you tried any of his fragrances? (If not: Ask Le Jardin Retrouvé for Free Samples - All around the world.) If you have, do you have a favorite? Learn more about Le Jardin Retrouve house and Yuri Gutsatz.

Best,
Karin

This post is by Karin of Savvy Thinker, guest blogger. Karin loves perfumes, especially vintage or artisan. She has a wide range of interests including but not limited to books, cosmetics, business, and jewelry, including beading.

Photo Credits: http://www.lejardinretrouve.com/

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Originally posted 2009-10-22 09:02:57. Republished by Blog Post Promoter

• Understanding Perfume Categories Every perfume or fragrance is unique, but many share common traits and therefore are categorized into specific perfume families or perfume categories. Every fragrance is capable of being put into a family, grouping it with a number of other fragrances that are similar. Here is some of what you need......
• Eau de Cuir de Russie (Russian Leather) by Yuri Gutsatz Review If you are looking for a leather fragrance that has a bit of a kick to it in the form of a surprisingly floral character, then a unique fragrance that is well worth picking up for yourself is the Eau de Cuir de Russie, or Eau de Russian Leather fragrance,......
• Eau de Sandalwood by Le Jardin Retrouvé Review Continuing to sample Le Jardin Retrouvé’s wood and leather scents.  Again, these were sent to cpf who passed them to me. No line would be complete without some representation of sandalwood. Eau de Sandalwood: Eau de Sandalwood was the first Eau de Parfum created when Le Jardin Retrouvé was established......
• Eau de Vetyver (Vetyver) and Vetyver Vanilla by Yuri Gutsatz Review Yuri Gutsatz has released in his lifetime a number of unique fragrances, some of which feature vetyver as one of its primary notes. He has made a name for himself with Le Jardin Retrouvé, and two of the fragrances that he created under this fragrance house were Eau de Vetyver......
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Verveine (Verbena)

A billow of freshness with a spicy middle note…. To enhance the Verbena note, Yuri Gutsatz imagined adding a whole bouquet of plants and herbs from Provence.

What are the notes for Verveine?

The verbena note develops and leaves a rich and complex harmony with Geranium, Sage, Thyme, Lavender and Neroli, plus made long-lasting by the addition of woodsy notes like Sandalwood and Vetyver.

I don’t get any lavender from this.  I love the fresh, bright lemon, which is long lasting.  It stays true.  While tart, it isn’t sour.

What is Verbena and where does it come from?

The verbena in Verveine comes from Provence in France.   The scent is obtained by distillation of verbena leaves, with a rather limited output.

What does verbena smell like?

It has a slightly green, almost tart lemon smell, wonderfully refreshing.

What associations are there with verbena?

Surprisingly, to me at least, there are legends that verbena protects from vampires. For such usage, people mixed it in herbal tea, kept it near them or used oil extracted from the plant.   It might be perfect to wear if you are planning to see New Moon, not that we think vampires are alive and well today.

Additionally, verbena has been associated in antiquity with supernatural or divine forces, called tears of Isis (the goddess of fertility) (Egypt)or Juno’s tears (queen of the Olympian gods who protected marriage) (Rome.) In Greece, it was dedicated to Eos Erigineia, goddess of the dawn.

In Ancient Rome the generic name was a term for sacrificial herbs that were considered very powerful.  Pliny the Elder mentions verbena, perhaps a general term for sacrificial herbs, presented on Jupiter’s altars.

And who knew that in the early Christian time, legend had it that verbena was used to staunch Jesus’ wounds after his removal from the cross. Consequently it is called holy herb or devil’s bane.

In Japan, verbena flowers are a symbol of cooperativeness.  (I will need my artist daughter to make one of her Victorian flower pendants for me with this flower.)

The names in many central and eastern European languages associate it with iron. Dutch: IJzerhard ("iron-hardener"); Danish: Læge-Jernurt ("medical ironwort"); German: Echtes Eisenkraut ("true ironherb"); Slovak: Železník lekársky ("medical ironherb"): and Hungarian: vasfű ("iron grass").

William Faulkner’s short story An Odor of Verbena, claims vervain is the only scent one can smell over the scent of horses and courage.

If you were born July 29, it is your flower. [The information in this section comes from Wiki.]

What does Verveine remind me of?

Verveine is similar to L'Occitane Verbena which is a blend of lemon verbena, lemon tree and geranium and is very crisp and green.

There is even some slight resemblance to Jean Nate, but it is more sophisticated.

The crisp greenness of Verveine settles quickly into bright lemon.  I love this stage of the fragrance.

Who can wear this?

This could easily be worn by a man or a woman.

Is it modern or traditional?

I associate this with modern, because of the new fragrances by L’Occitane.  OTOH, L’Occitane might have brought back a scent from the past.  It seems new and fresh to me.

Once again Yuri Gutsatz’ fragrances stand the test of time.

Could you layer this?

Maybe not, unless you were going for the lemon.  I think it would dominate over whatever you were layering with.

What I like about it:

I love the lemony green of it.  Now that I know some of the associations for this plant, wearing it will have more meaning.  Perhaps I will wear verbena for Easter as a kind of scentual reminder of Jesus.  I will definitely spritz a verbena fragrance when going to see New Moon, the second movie in the Twilight series.

What is this fragrance like?

If you want a pick-me-up, this fragrance is as refreshing as lemonade on a hot day.  It leaves you feeling happy.

My take:

If you are looking for verbena, Verveine is perfect.

What do you think?

Have you tried any of his fragrances? (If not: Ask Le Jardin Retrouvé for Free Samples - All around the world.) Do you like verbena fragrances? If you have, do you have a favorite? Learn more about Le Jardin Retrouve house and Yuri Gutsatz.

Best,
Karin

This post is by Karin of Savvy Thinker, guest blogger. Karin loves perfumes, especially vintage or artisan. She has a wide range of interests including but not limited to books, cosmetics, business, and jewelry, including beading.

Photo Credits: http://www.lejardinretrouve.com/

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Originally posted 2009-10-23 12:39:22. Republished by Blog Post Promoter

• Eau de Tubéreuse (Tuberose) by Le Jardin Retrouvé Review Continuing to sample Le Jardin Retrouvé’s scents passed on to me from cpf via LJR. The flower scents: Citron Poivré (Spicy Lemon), Eau de Tubéreuse (Tuberose), Jasmin (Jasmine), Verveine (Verbena), The Lys (Lily), and Chèvrefeuille (Honeysuckle). I will do the roses in a separate category. Eau de Tubéreuse (Tuberose): A......
• The Eau "pour Homme" (for men) by Le Jardin Retrouvé Review Continuing to sample Le Jardin Retrouvé’s wood and leather scents.  Again, these were sent to cpf who passed them to me. The Eau "pour Homme" (for men) is an intriguing men’s fragrance which combines notes of flowers, spices and wood diffused and long-lasting, where– the essential notes are derived from......
• Eau de Sandalwood by Le Jardin Retrouvé Review Continuing to sample Le Jardin Retrouvé’s wood and leather scents.  Again, these were sent to cpf who passed them to me. No line would be complete without some representation of sandalwood. Eau de Sandalwood: Eau de Sandalwood was the first Eau de Parfum created when Le Jardin Retrouvé was established......
• Eau de Cologne by Yuri Gutsatz Review Continuing to sample Le Jardin Retrouvé’s scents passed on to me from cpf via LJR.  The flower scents: Citron Poivré (Spicy Lemon), Eau de Tubéreuse (Tuberose), Jasmin (Jasmine), Verveine (Verbena), The Lys (Lily), and Chèvrefeuille (Honeysuckle). I reviewed the roses in a separate category. And the last: Eau de Cologne......
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And the last:

Eau de Cologne

Notes: the very best essential oils - Lemon and Bergamot from Italy, Neroli from Grasse, Orange and Mandarine, enhanced with touches of Oak Moss, Sandalwood from Mysore and Musk.

What is the history?

If you have been to Cologne, you know Cologne is famous for its own Eau de Cologne which was created at the end of the 18^th Century, as well as its Cathedral.  Tradition has it that Napoleon wore this during his campaigns.  It was extremely popular during its time and has lasted to this day as more than a tourist souvenir.

What is it like?

Any time you have lemon and bergamot, you know it will be refreshing.  The initial notes are very crisp.  Next comes the orange and mandarin, which sweetens it just a tad.  The longer it is on, the more a sweetening comes from the orange, but at first it is not there.

At the same time, underlying it are the base notes that anchor it, so it isn’t fleeting.  It is so well blended that I don’t catch any of the individual notes of oak moss, sandalwood or musk.  But they are there taking it out of the realm of being strictly citrus.  The longer I wear it, a subtle spicy note comes up on my skin, almost, but not quite, a cinnamon.

What does it remind me of?

It reminds me of Guerlain’s Eau de Fleurs de Cedrat, which is a magnificent lemon, but unfortunately it only lasts 10 seconds.  I’m not exaggerating!  Eau de Cologne is much more long lasting.  That sounds funny, because anything would be in comparison, but Cologne keeps on keeping on.  It is less sweet that Cedrat.  And it does remind me of the Cologne from Cologne.

Who can wear this?

To me, it is more of a men’s cologne, at least in the initial moments, but as it settles, it is very nice for a woman.  I’d love to smell this on a couple who both wear it well.  I would imagine it would pull different notes on each of them.  If you are looking for a scent that you could wear together, this might be it.

Is it modern or traditional?

This is a very old traditional fragrance.  That is not a bad thing.  It just has a very old world, European allure to it.  I wish I had my cologne from Cologne to compare it to more exactly, but it is long gone.  Using my memory, this is less sharp, but definitely in the same tradition.  It feels like better quality.

Could you layer this?

I dunno.  It’s quite distinct on its own.  If you do, please leave a message.  I’d love to know what works with it.  I would wear it on its own.

What I like about it:

It is fresh and invigorating, dry and a bit spicy.  It is a traditional men’s scent. I think it would wear well through the day.

My take:

This is not my favorite of the LJR fragrances I have tried, but I feel that it could easily be someone’s favorite who was looking for this scent memory.

I give this fragrance a  3 out of 4 for a man and a 2 out of 4 for a woman.

What do you think?

Have you tried this one?  Do you have a favorite?

Have you tried any of his fragrances? (If not: Ask Le Jardin Retrouvé for Free Samples - All around the world.) If you have, do you have a favorite? Learn more about Le Jardin Retrouve house and Yuri Gutsatz.

Best,
Karin

This post is by Karin of Savvy Thinker, guest blogger. Karin loves perfumes, especially vintage or artisan. She has a wide range of interests including but not limited to books, cosmetics, business, and jewelry, including beading.

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Originally posted 2009-11-10 17:54:07. Republished by Blog Post Promoter

• Kenzo Tokyo Cologne for Men Review The Kenzo Tokyo cologne represents a serene nature amidst a crazy and poetic city, and it rests in the intersection between bamboo and skyscrapers set against Tokyo by night's sharp city lights. The Kenzo Tokyo cologne is Tokyo as it would be experienced by a Westerner, someone who is dazed......
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First, Rose Opéra.

Rose Opéra is rose with a little hype.

The first impression is more than rose, but then it settles into rose alone very quickly.

The back story:

How did Rose Opéra come to be?

When I think of the creation of Rose Opéra, I think of it along similar lines to synesthesia, because an opera was conceived as having a scent.  Synesthesia is a phenomenon, thought to be neurological, in which a person perceives a sense with another sense, for example, a person who is a synthete might hear music and associate it with colors.  Or, see colors and associate them with scents.  Or smell a fragrance and see a color.

Les Indes Galantes, an opera by Rameau was to be performed at the Paris Opera House.

Maurice Lehmann, Director of the integrated Lyrique-Opéra and the OPERA COMIQUE theatres, wanted to include perfume, a third sense, in the theatre production, just as sound and light are.

In 1952, Yuri Gutsatz was asked to conceive a perfume for this opera.  The result was a perfume called Apparition de la Rose for the second act of the Ballet des Fleurs. That became his inspiration.

Over a period of several months Gutsatz became intimately involved with the process of the ballet, from backstage to the changing of scenery and the personalities of the principal dancers.

How was it possible?

Fortuitously, Opéra had been equipped since 1936 with an air circulation system that would change and renew the entire volume of air in 10 minutes!

Thus it was possible for any perfume  to be diffused, then eliminated in a short period of time.

How did he do it?

He released perfume at the air conditioning intake vents located under the dome.  He perfumed 19,000 cubic meters with just two small flacons of 25 ml each in a concentration of 15%.   Amazing, really!

How was it released at exactly the right moment?

That was the trick and the genius.

While it would be simpler today, maybe, through the use of computers to figure it out, in 1952 it was not an exact science.  And, if we thought it were doable today, likely it would have been done again.

The perfume was first released either too soon or too late, but through these experiences, trial and error, a musical marker was found that could be used to release the fragrance so that it coordinated properly with both the visual and the music.

How did they determine it would be Rose?

Gutsatz suggested three perfumes:

OPOPONAX AMBER type for the second act featuring the eruption of a volcano (masterfully orchestrated by RUGGIERI)

a ROSE for the fourth act – the ballet of the flowers, where the principal dancer, dressed as a ROSE, emerged from a trap door –

and finally a JASMINE for a decor representing a primitive island with imaginary flowers and ballet dancers dressed as panthers around the extras dressed as plumed warriors.

I think the Opoponax Amber would be delicious, but the eruption of the volcano was followed by the smell of gunpowder!  Too bad!

That left the rose and the jasmine.

No expense spared

How lovely to be given carte blanche!  That’s probably another modern day deterrent, though the amount released was not as much as I would have expected.

Gutsatz prepared both a rose and a jasmine without being concerned for cost.  He attended over 150 performances and heard folks say they smelled roses, but never that they smelled jasmine.  He felt that was because at that time they were unfamiliar with the fragrance of jasmine.  So rose it was.

Was it successful?

Yes, it was so successful that he was asked to perfume Oberon later.

[He] imagined a green-algae perfume for a scene with tritons and naiads frolicking in the depths of murky underwater. A bit reminiscent of BALMAIN's VENT VERT. But without success: the spectators glanced at their neighbours thinking it was the perfume of the person next to them.

Vent Vert is a fragrance I love, so I would dearly love to know what this fragrance smelled like.

My take:

It is unfair for me to give it a rating.  I am not successful wearing roses.

I struggle with wearing rose fragrances because on me they generally go through a funky stage or stay in this stage.  I get a bit of that here, after the rose makes it appearance, but it moves into a nice rose on me after that.

If you like roses and are looking for a new fragrance or to enhance your wardrobe of roses, try all three of his roses.  There are nuances between them.  You will either find you like them all or that one is your favorite.

The story behind Rose Opéra gives an added pleasure in wearing it.  One can imagine the curtain rising and being a part of this historical event.

What do you think?

Have you tried any of his fragrances? If you have, do you have a favorite? (If not: Ask Le Jardin Retrouvé for Free Samples - All around the world.) Can you wear roses – and do you? Learn more about Le Jardin Retrouve house and Yuri Gutsatz.

Best,
Karin

This post is by Karin of Savvy Thinker, guest blogger. Karin loves perfumes, especially vintage or artisan. She has a wide range of interests including but not limited to books, cosmetics, business, and jewelry, including beading.

Photo Credits: http://www.lejardinretrouve.com/

Originally posted 2009-10-29 15:06:12. Republished by Blog Post Promoter

• 212 Cologne Review by Carolina Herrera The 212 Cologne was originally introduced in the year 1999 as a cologne for men by Carolina Herrera. The 212 Cologne by Carolina Herrera is a refreshing and floral fragrance that is masculine in nature without being too overly so. This fresh and floral fragrance possesses a unique blend of......
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• Jasmin (Jasmine) Le Jardin Retrouvé Review Continuing to sample Le Jardin Retrouvé’s scents passed them to me from cpf via LJR.  The flower scents: Citron Poivré (Spicy Lemon), Eau de Tubéreuse (Tuberose), Jasmin (Jasmine), Verveine (Verbena), The Lys (Lily), and Chèvrefeuille (Honeysuckle).  I will do the roses in a separate category. Jasmin: Yuri Gutsatz imagined an......
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Eau de Vetyver (Vetyver)

The Eau de Vetyver perfume exemplifies the belief that vetyver is an essential oil that can be used to add dimension to nearly any fragrance. Throughout the years, many perfumers have implemented vetyver within their creations. Vetyver is extracted out of the roots of a truly exotic plant that is found in India, Haiti, Reunion Island and Indonesia.

The vetyver scent is a redolent and warm scent that makes vetyver's essence one of the most important of all base notes in a wide variety of perfumes, but Yuri Gutsatz takes things a step further in some of his fragrances by treating this unique note as a core note rather than as a base note. This note is so popular in the world of perfumery because it is both feminine and masculine as well. It is generally in masculine perfumes that the note is treated as a dominant note, while in feminine fragrances it is used as an undertone instead. Many perfume manufacturers have created at least one Eau de Parfum or Eau de Toilette featuring vetyver in some form or another.

Each and every perfumer has their very own unique interpretation of what vetyver is. The Le Jardin Retrouvé take on this perfume features tangy head notes with lemon and bergamot and woodsy and warm tones with just a little bit of tobacco mixed in. This makes the Eau de Vetyver a truly masculine fragrance that is original as well as classical at the same time. In the men's collection for Le Jardin Retrouvé, the Eau de Vetyver perfume is one of the best selling fragrances for good reason.

Vetyver Vanilla

Vetyver Vanilla is another example of a Yuri Gutsatz Eau de Parfum fragrance that uses vetyver essential oil, extracted from plant roots in exotic countries around the world. The Le Jardin Retrouve line of fragrances utilizes Vetyver in combination with a Bourbon vanilla for a warm and suave fragrance perfume. This fragrance combines the same fragrance notes as the Eau de Vetyver with the addition of just a touch worth of Bourbon Vanilla, which combines quite well in conjunction with the Vetyver, which easily dominates this unique fragrance.

If you like the Eau de Vetyver by Le Jardin Retrouvé but you are looking for something a little warmer and softer, then consider toning down the tangy, spicy notes of the Le Jardin Retrouvé's Eau de Vetyver with a just a touch of bourbon vanilla in Vetyver Vanilla.

Ask Le Jardin Retrouvé for Free Samples - All around the world.)

Photo Credits: http://www.lejardinretrouve.com/

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Originally posted 2010-10-20 09:27:26. Republished by Blog Post Promoter

• Le Jardin Retrouvé and Yuri Gutsatz Le Jardin Retrouvé: was founded in 1975 by Yuri GUTSATZ (1914-2005), Perfume - Composer, who spent the greater part of his career working in one of the most prestigious French companies producing aromatic products. Le Jardin Retrouvé with its limited production, is an attempt to return to the artisanal......
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• Chèvrefeuille (Honeysuckle) by Le Jardin Retrouvé Review Continuing to sample Le Jardin Retrouvé’s scents passed them to me from cpf via LJR. The flower scents: Citron Poivré (Spicy Lemon), Eau de Tubéreuse (Tuberose), Jasmin (Jasmine), Verveine (Verbena), The Lys (Lily), and Chèvrefeuille (Honeysuckle). I will do the roses in a separate category. The scent of honeysuckle in......

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The scent of honeysuckle in the air

Anyone who has ever smelled honeysuckle in the air, knows how captivating this scent is. Many women love the scent. It holds fond memories. No wonder it is a fragrance often developed for perfume companies!

Chèvrefeuille (Honeysuckle):

The richness of a Spring Flower.

How is the scent of honeysuckle obtained?

Interestingly enough, the scent of honeysuckle cannot be captured by distillation, nor can it be extracted with volatile solvents. I found a recipe for making honeysuckle fragrance from the flowers, but it cannot be kept very long, for it will not stay fresh.

Thus, the Eau de Parfum Chevrefeuille (Honeysuckle) is a purely imaginary reconstruction by the Perfumer where his know-how translates his perception of the flower's perfume, using various other essences in order to resemble, as closely as possible, the suave and heady perfume of the flower.

What notes are in LJR’s rendition of honeysuckle?

The head notes are enhanced with a fresh opening note of Italian Lemon and St. John's Wort from Paraguay, to develop into a fresh floral bouquet.

Does it smell like honeysuckle?

Yes, perfectly. I've never found a honeysuckle that I liked as well as this one.

It is interesting to me how the hint of lemon focuses the perfume's scent. While the lemon is brighter at the very beginning, you can still get hints of it at the end. That is the art of perfumery: knowing how to add a note to define another note. To have it develop or last to the end is an art all its own.

What does it remind me of?

There are a number of companies that make a honeysuckle fragrance.  But they have a sharpness to them that is not found here. This one is smoother and richer, almost like a parfum.

Who can wear this?

This is a woman’s fragrance. It's quite sophisticated for being a 'simple' floral.

Could you layer this?

Not unless you were trying to add some honeysuckle to or boost the honeysuckle in another fragrance.

I have heard that it is very good layered with LJR's Tubereuse. I will try it!

Edit: See my review of the layering here.

What is this fragrance like?

This is a lovely, rich honeysuckle.  It stays true to the real fragrance of the flower, from beginning to end.  It captures the spiciness of the real blossom.

What I like about it:

It is a true honeysuckle soliflore, but it is more interesting than most.

My take

If you are looking for a honeysuckle fragrance, this is one you should definitely try.

What do you think?

Have you tried any of his fragrances? (If not: Ask Le Jardin Retrouvé for Free Samples - All around the world.) Do you like honeysuckle fragrances? If you have, do you have a favorite? Learn more about Le Jardin Retrouve house and Yuri Gutsatz.

Best,
Karin

This post is by Karin of Savvy Thinker, guest blogger. Karin loves perfumes, especially vintage or artisan. She has a wide range of interests including but not limited to books, cosmetics, business, and jewelry, including beading.

Photo Credits: http://www.lejardinretrouve.com/

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Originally posted 2009-10-24 17:40:38. Republished by Blog Post Promoter

• Eau de Cuir de Russie (Russian Leather) by Yuri Gutsatz Review If you are looking for a leather fragrance that has a bit of a kick to it in the form of a surprisingly floral character, then a unique fragrance that is well worth picking up for yourself is the Eau de Cuir de Russie, or Eau de Russian Leather fragrance,......
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• Eau de Tubéreuse (Tuberose) by Le Jardin Retrouvé Review Continuing to sample Le Jardin Retrouvé’s scents passed on to me from cpf via LJR. The flower scents: Citron Poivré (Spicy Lemon), Eau de Tubéreuse (Tuberose), Jasmin (Jasmine), Verveine (Verbena), The Lys (Lily), and Chèvrefeuille (Honeysuckle). I will do the roses in a separate category. Eau de Tubéreuse (Tuberose): A......
• Jasmin (Jasmine) Le Jardin Retrouvé Review Continuing to sample Le Jardin Retrouvé’s scents passed them to me from cpf via LJR.  The flower scents: Citron Poivré (Spicy Lemon), Eau de Tubéreuse (Tuberose), Jasmin (Jasmine), Verveine (Verbena), The Lys (Lily), and Chèvrefeuille (Honeysuckle).  I will do the roses in a separate category. Jasmin: Yuri Gutsatz imagined an......
• Rose de Mai and Rose Thé by Le Jardin Retrouvé Les Trois Roses - The Three Roses Rose Opéra - Rose de Mai -  and Rose Thé are the three roses offered by Le Jardin Retrouve. I earlier wrote about Rose Opéra and the interesting story behind it. Next are Rose de Mai and Rose Thé. Rose is a popular......

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Such is the serendipitous layering of Le Jardin Retrouvé's Le Chèvrefeuille - Honeysuckle with Le Jardin Retrouvé's Tubereuse.

I couldn't imagine layering Tubereuse, because it is such a big, bold fragrance on its own, but Marlen at Perfume Critic said it was delicious when layered with Le Jardin Retrouvé's Le Chèvrefeuille - Honeysuckle.

What did I have to lose! I needed to try this.

Method of application:

First I put some Le Chèvrefeuille - Honeysuckle on the back of my hand, then I put an equal amount of Tubereuse on top of it.

At first there was more Tubereuse, as you would expect, but very shortly in, the honeysuckle is coming to the front.

Second, on the other hand, I reversed the order, using the Honeysuckle on top. This gives a greener sense of the combined scent.

This is a wonderful mix!

My take:

I highly recommend these two together. This is a case where the sum of the whole is greater than the sum of its parts.

Who can wear this combination?

I think it would be as wonderful on a man, as on a woman.

If you happen to have these two fragrances on hand from other companies, you might find it works even then. But one of the best things about Le Jardin Retrouvé's fragrances is that they are immediately wearable. You don't have to wait for any alcohol to burn off. They are more like perfumes than edp. So I suspect while it might be a good combination with someone else's fragrances, it is a superb combination with Le Jardin Retrouvé.

Thanks to Perfume Critic for this idea, as presented at LJR.

Learn more about Le Jardin Retrouve house and Yuri Gutsatz.

Best,
Karin

This post is by Karin of Savvy Thinker, guest blogger. Karin loves perfumes, especially vintage or artisan. She has a wide range of interests including but not limited to books, cosmetics, business, and jewelry, including beading.

Photo Credits: http://www.lejardinretrouve.com/

Originally posted 2009-10-25 16:43:09. Republished by Blog Post Promoter

• Rose de Mai and Rose Thé by Le Jardin Retrouvé Les Trois Roses - The Three Roses Rose Opéra - Rose de Mai -  and Rose Thé are the three roses offered by Le Jardin Retrouve. I earlier wrote about Rose Opéra and the interesting story behind it. Next are Rose de Mai and Rose Thé. Rose is a popular......
• The Eau "pour Homme" (for men) by Le Jardin Retrouvé Review Continuing to sample Le Jardin Retrouvé’s wood and leather scents.  Again, these were sent to cpf who passed them to me. The Eau "pour Homme" (for men) is an intriguing men’s fragrance which combines notes of flowers, spices and wood diffused and long-lasting, where– the essential notes are derived from......
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No line would be complete without some representation of sandalwood.

Eau de Sandalwood:

Eau de Sandalwood was the first Eau de Parfum created when Le Jardin Retrouvé was established in 1975.

What is sandalwood?

Sandalwood is an essential oil, with a rich and warm note found in many perfumes, especially in oriental fragrances.  You would expect it in oriental or eastern fragrances, since the note is found in India.

This note is in many men’s and women’s fragrances, including Guerlain’s Shalimar.  Just in the index of fragrances and their notes that I have on file, I have 438 fragrances out of 1189 that contain some sandalwood!  And that isn’t a full listing of all perfumes by any stretch of the imagination.

Where is sandalwood found?

The origin of the essential oil of sandalwood is found in the region of MYSORE (now KARNATAKA) in India.  This is the only region where this fragrant wood can be found.

Sandalwood, with its rich, warm and sensual notes, an ingredient used in numerous perfumes, will certainly seduce your senses. ~ LJR

What is it like?

Eau de Sandalwood is considered a men’s fragrance by Le Jardin Retrouvé.  It is not sweet like some sandalwood is.  It doesn’t resemble Shalimar.  There’s no vanilla.  The longer it is on my skin, the better I like it.   But this is not one that I would wear as a woman.  I would like it on a man.

While Divina sees it as powdery, I don’t get any powder in it.  It is almost as if it is burning in a pipe, for me.

Who can wear this?

Eau de Sandalwood is envisioned as a men’s fragrance, and I would prefer it on a man.  While I could wear it, and I’m wearing it as I write this, it is not one that I would reach for very often.  I prefer Le Jardin Retrouvé’s Eau de Vetyver.

Could you layer this?

It is possible you could layer Eau de Sandalwood into other fragrances to add sandalwood, especially if you were trying to cut a fragrance that is too sweet.

What I like about it:

I like the dry down of it especially.  It has an intriguing realness to it, as opposed to the notes that are artificial in most fragrances.  It smells like the scent of India.

If you’d like to read more about Indian scents, go here.

Or in French.

My take:

I give this fragrance a  2 out of 4, simply because I would not wear it.  I’d like to smell it on a man, then I might give it a 3.

I admit there are women who would love this fragrance and would wear it well.  If you like Paloma Picasso or Estee Lauder’s Knowing, you might like this.  Eau de Sandalwood is not near as intense as either of these, but it is reminiscent of them, at least to me.

I could envision spritzing it around a room.

Edit: The more I put on my skin the more I feel I could wear it as the spice comes out. So there you have it!

What do you think?

Do you like and wear sandalwood? Have you tried any of his fragrances?  (If not: Ask Le Jardin Retrouvé for Free Samples - All around the world.) If you have, do you have a favorite? Learn more about Le Jardin Retrouve house and Yuri Gutsatz.

Best,
Karin

This post is by Karin of Savvy Thinker, guest blogger. Karin loves perfumes, especially vintage or artisan. She has a wide range of interests including but not limited to books, cosmetics, business, and jewelry, including beading.

Photo Credits: http://www.lejardinretrouve.com/

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Originally posted 2009-10-19 17:49:58. Republished by Blog Post Promoter

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